Jan Barba
Three perfumes from Warsaw!
The firm of Jan Barba sent me three samples from Warsaw and an ironic postcard depicting the place before the miracle happened. In case you missed it, Poland has become a place that citizens of other EU countries want to move to. The cities are beautiful, the people smart and creative, the universities excellent, and the economy roaring ahead. This, at long last, is their dividend from shaking off the leaden Russians. Now, if only everyone in Central and Eastern Europe would agree to learn the wonderful Interslavic language … but no, their common language will likely be English, just as everywhere else.
Jan Barba fragrances have a strong family resemblance, and it is a very pretty, smiling face. Perfumer Bart Puzio is self-taught, but Aimé Guerlain must have been looking over his shoulder, because all three EDTs he sent have a weight distribution similar to vintage Jicky. They start with terrific mouth-watering citrus or fruit up top, followed by lovely languid drydowns.
Today’s reviews are free to read: Aiyoku, Olympia, Antea.
Aiyoku
Aiyoku is almost a Cologne structure, but with color saturation and contrast turned up to maximum. The composition does not fade to a hum after five minutes, as a proper man’s cologne should, but continues with all sails to the wind. There is currently a two-way traffic between masculine and feminine fragrances. Cleaned-up feminines like the Legacy Knowing (Lauder) make terrific masculines, while brighter, stronger versions of masculine classics like Aiyoku often work best on a woman.
Olympia
After an exhilarating blast of blackcurrant buds so intense that it brings to mind both cat pee and top-notch olive oil, Olympia settles down to a stylish, smooth rose-sandalwood accord in the grand 1950s manner. Nice, though the far drydown could be better.
Antea
Antea is Jan Barba’s latest and, to my mind, most accomplished fragrance. Fresh start and rich heart join together in a complex woody-violets accord. It has some of the warm, edible complexity of Vol de Nuit but sunnier, more straightforward. This is clearly an homage to the 1930s greats of Guerlain and Caron, beautifully done.
A pleasure to read a review of several successful scents, and also to learn about Poland blooming! I was not aware of this. Apparently my News of the World reading is still a little too much “parochial North American Continent the only hope in the world”centric. I will have to do something about that. Once again, I learn something I really did not know from your posts! Thanks!
Fascinating! My mother’s side of the family is from the northern reaches of Prussian Poland; Patac w Jankowie was built by my great-great grandfather. One of these days we will take our son to see it (it’s a museum now).