I would love to read a piece from you addressing the topic of masculine and feminine scents. I find the topic confusing because despite my traditional sexual and gender identity (forgive me if I misuse the terms--I was born during the Eisenhower presidency) my nose is bisexual.
First, I love the way you write about perfume (and other interesting/unusual/esoteric subjects!). Second, I’m curious whether you read descriptions or material (marketing or otherwise) about the perfumes you are thinking about and/or writing about. Do you plunge directly into the olfactory experience of the perfume and avoid reading anything about it? Or do you also look at the « stuff » that’s out there (marketing, reviews, etc)? And, finally, how do you avoid the seemingly inevitable pile up of adjectives which plagues so much perfume writing? I’m really curious about that!
Thank you. I try to read as little as possible, much as I seldom read programme notes at a concert. The stuff should stand on its own unless you're planning to wear the press release around your neck with the fragrance. Re: adjectives, I think I'm as guilty as anyone :-D
It seems that everyone now accepts that there are two theories, which is huge progress. What is lacking is a definitive experiment showing electron flow in the receptors. I am currently collaborating with a German colleague on exactly that.
If you had a magic wand, what perfume accord would you make popular in masculine perfumery? Just like, for reasons unknown to myself (apart from sales obviously), ambroxan/amber woods is popular now?
I would love to know your thoughts, Mr. Turin, on the fragrances of Stora Skuggan (especially Silphium, Fantôme de Maules, and Hexensalbe, my favorites). The way they conceptualize their work (storytelling?) is really exciting to me (this aspect is almost never exciting to me) and what I would personally like to see more of in artisanal and independent spaces. Their work is intellectually & viscerally stimulating, imho. I would be really interested in your take (even if you hate them).
I visited Bloom Perfumery a few weeks ago based on your article and had great fun. What a great shop and fantastic team. Will you be sharing more tips in future on places you enjoy visiting related to fragrance?
I'd like to hear your thoughts on the perfume scene in Asia, as their market is on the rise and plenty of interesting houses are emerging.
I really enjoyed Tobali, Satori, Edit(h) and Kitowa from Japan. Some lesser known houses such as Tada from Thailand and One Day from Hong Kong are promising as well. Not to mention the elusive Chinese brands where it's really difficult to get samples of, as they're more or less catering exclusively toward their domestic market.
Can you please help me with my confusion. I do struggle to smell anything skanky and seriously dirty in vintage perfumes (Chanel no 5 extrait from 60s, Coty Chypre extrait, Dior Miss Dior Originale edt 40s) , whereas in modern perfumes with synthetic animalic accords I can smell them easy. How would you explain this: vintages are not supposed to be overtly filthy? Can I be partially anosmic to the dirties part of natural civet/castoreum/musk? Or I simply haven't come across anything seriously animalic and if that's the case, which ones should I smell to have a good idea of it?
Civet, musk and castoreum are called "animalic" because of their provenance, not because of a commonality in smell. I find oud and narcissus absolute to be more animalic than those three. Older fragrances were rarely animalic, certainly wehn compared to modern things like Ruade, etc.
Thank you so much for your answer, I am happy to find my nose is not letting me down!
Have you tried anything from Senyoko and especially La Tsarine? Would be curious to read your thoughts on it! Are you planning to review Papillon brand from the UK?
London is having one of its murky heat days and I just want lemons. What’s your favorite lemony fragrance that’s at a price point where you don’t mind throwing it on with abandon? Thanks for the AMA!
Oh one more if I may have you heard anything about Atelier Cologne as far as being active again with both great perfumers and in the US/EU/UK? I miss them and always appreciated their take on a French cologne but in EDP strength. Quite a few favorites from that house.
First, obviously: adore your brilliant, witty writing (even without the scents...).
Two questions: has Habanita been reformulated since 2012? I ask because the bottle I bought last year (from a reputable source) bears no resemblance - thin, vaguely citrusy, nothing.
Is it possible to buy the Aurélien Guichard formulation of Piguet's Futur in the UK? (Almost run out; and can't seem to find it anywhere.)
Oh yes, one more: is it money (apart from the "safety" obsession) that governs the perfume industry's failure to recognise its own canon and constantly bowdlerise its own masterpieces? Why not like literature, say, where you can have endless variations in performance of Shakespeare, but the original text is still there? (Think that's more of a plea actually...) Thanks!
Will any company be brave enough to print DANGER on the packaging and just go for it with the naughty ingredients?
I very much hope so, but the start will be rocky.
I would love to read a piece from you addressing the topic of masculine and feminine scents. I find the topic confusing because despite my traditional sexual and gender identity (forgive me if I misuse the terms--I was born during the Eisenhower presidency) my nose is bisexual.
First, I love the way you write about perfume (and other interesting/unusual/esoteric subjects!). Second, I’m curious whether you read descriptions or material (marketing or otherwise) about the perfumes you are thinking about and/or writing about. Do you plunge directly into the olfactory experience of the perfume and avoid reading anything about it? Or do you also look at the « stuff » that’s out there (marketing, reviews, etc)? And, finally, how do you avoid the seemingly inevitable pile up of adjectives which plagues so much perfume writing? I’m really curious about that!
Thank you. I try to read as little as possible, much as I seldom read programme notes at a concert. The stuff should stand on its own unless you're planning to wear the press release around your neck with the fragrance. Re: adjectives, I think I'm as guilty as anyone :-D
One perfume accord to rule them all?
Sauron by Hans Zimmer
What is the current status of the vibration theory of olfaction? Are you optimistic that it will eventually prevail?
It seems that everyone now accepts that there are two theories, which is huge progress. What is lacking is a definitive experiment showing electron flow in the receptors. I am currently collaborating with a German colleague on exactly that.
I love the science talk!
Very glad to hear that. Looking forward to the published results.
If you had a magic wand, what perfume accord would you make popular in masculine perfumery? Just like, for reasons unknown to myself (apart from sales obviously), ambroxan/amber woods is popular now?
White Shoulders
Thank you ❤️
I would love to know your thoughts, Mr. Turin, on the fragrances of Stora Skuggan (especially Silphium, Fantôme de Maules, and Hexensalbe, my favorites). The way they conceptualize their work (storytelling?) is really exciting to me (this aspect is almost never exciting to me) and what I would personally like to see more of in artisanal and independent spaces. Their work is intellectually & viscerally stimulating, imho. I would be really interested in your take (even if you hate them).
Contacting them for samples :-)
😀
Curious to know your thoughts on two Tauer perfumes: L'Air des Alpes Suisses and Golestan. Any musings about them?
Haven't smelled them, will do.
I visited Bloom Perfumery a few weeks ago based on your article and had great fun. What a great shop and fantastic team. Will you be sharing more tips in future on places you enjoy visiting related to fragrance?
Yes. I'm planning to go back to Bloom with a bit more time soon!
I'd like to hear your thoughts on the perfume scene in Asia, as their market is on the rise and plenty of interesting houses are emerging.
I really enjoyed Tobali, Satori, Edit(h) and Kitowa from Japan. Some lesser known houses such as Tada from Thailand and One Day from Hong Kong are promising as well. Not to mention the elusive Chinese brands where it's really difficult to get samples of, as they're more or less catering exclusively toward their domestic market.
My ignorance of the Asian perfume scene is almost total, and thank you for reminding me to look into it.
Can you please help me with my confusion. I do struggle to smell anything skanky and seriously dirty in vintage perfumes (Chanel no 5 extrait from 60s, Coty Chypre extrait, Dior Miss Dior Originale edt 40s) , whereas in modern perfumes with synthetic animalic accords I can smell them easy. How would you explain this: vintages are not supposed to be overtly filthy? Can I be partially anosmic to the dirties part of natural civet/castoreum/musk? Or I simply haven't come across anything seriously animalic and if that's the case, which ones should I smell to have a good idea of it?
Thank you!
Civet, musk and castoreum are called "animalic" because of their provenance, not because of a commonality in smell. I find oud and narcissus absolute to be more animalic than those three. Older fragrances were rarely animalic, certainly wehn compared to modern things like Ruade, etc.
Thank you so much for your answer, I am happy to find my nose is not letting me down!
Have you tried anything from Senyoko and especially La Tsarine? Would be curious to read your thoughts on it! Are you planning to review Papillon brand from the UK?
Papilllon is on my list. Looking up Senyoko with thanks!
Fab! Can't wait for your take on those perfumes!
Luca and Tania reviewed some Papillon in the guide 2018. They are so good, especially Dryad!
I know they are! I sampled them all, apart from the newest one, Epona, it's not out until Aug 1st. I am just curious on Luca's views on them!
London is having one of its murky heat days and I just want lemons. What’s your favorite lemony fragrance that’s at a price point where you don’t mind throwing it on with abandon? Thanks for the AMA!
I think any decent Eau de Cologne (4711, etc) does a great job. I love Florida Water (on Amazon) too.
Thank you!
Oh one more if I may have you heard anything about Atelier Cologne as far as being active again with both great perfumers and in the US/EU/UK? I miss them and always appreciated their take on a French cologne but in EDP strength. Quite a few favorites from that house.
Will look into it.
Thank you so much!!
Besides original Apres L'ondee and Iris Gris, what perfume(s) come to your mind immediately reaching the same level of poetic nostalgia?
Nombre Noir
What headphones are you currently using?
An old pair of HifiMan HE-300s
First, obviously: adore your brilliant, witty writing (even without the scents...).
Two questions: has Habanita been reformulated since 2012? I ask because the bottle I bought last year (from a reputable source) bears no resemblance - thin, vaguely citrusy, nothing.
Is it possible to buy the Aurélien Guichard formulation of Piguet's Futur in the UK? (Almost run out; and can't seem to find it anywhere.)
Oh yes, one more: is it money (apart from the "safety" obsession) that governs the perfume industry's failure to recognise its own canon and constantly bowdlerise its own masterpieces? Why not like literature, say, where you can have endless variations in performance of Shakespeare, but the original text is still there? (Think that's more of a plea actually...) Thanks!
I recently bought a bottle of Habanita and find it nicely robust and powdery…not thin…the leather chypre (almost) I wanted. Hmmm
Thanks, this is really helpful - I’ve obviously got a dud (but at least I don't have to give up on Habanita…). Much appreciated.