Great article. I really do love Paris-Paris though. For me it’s a rose patchouli perfect for as gray a day as the liquid itself is. I can only do it occasionally, but I love it.
I loved Edimbourg in the beginning, but after a while it started reminding me for some reason of Kenzo pour Homme which I had negative connotations with. I had to get rid of my bottle....
The whole thing is worth a read, but I thought you and Tania may get a kick out of the following quote :
"It’s one we share, actually: smell. I know that Eno is a perfume-head, like me, and What Art Does provides a convenient excuse to bring it up. In their eclectic reading list at the back of the book, alongside Baudrillard, Morse Peckham and “Wikipedia”, Adriaanse and Eno have included Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez, which aficionados know as one of the great books of art criticism of the 21st century (non-aficionado’s tend to think “Huh? Perfumes?”, until they read it)."
What I love about this critique is how, when he describes the one scent that rises to poetry, the writing itself synchronously rises to poetry: "... polite and into poetic territory" - - the faceted plays on the p and t consonants are a part of that.
I too feel that Chanel has done fresh much more memorably-with the Eau de Cologne (sadly more expensive).
From a marketing perspective, it's interesting that here in the US the eaux appear to inhabit the intermediate space between the regular line and the exclusives. They're less available than the regulars, but easier to find than the exclusives.
I love Edimbourg - it’s one that I really enjoy in Autumn (I imagine Claudia Winkelman in the The Traitors wearing it). Deauville was also a Summer favourite but despite carefully storing it, the second summer it had lost all its zing. Cue a very sad face from me!
Perhaps if that section of the store is deserted and the fragrances are so transparent that even a capsule review is overmuch, then might we just as well skip the jus and wear Chanel-branded plaques about our necks? Say, one is en route to Biarritz… https://antiquitieswarehouse.com/products/french-maritime-sign
I guess when it comes to us all here, knowing that a fragrance is done with well-made-materials but also dull is important.
Reading this made me think about tasting Louis XV Remy Martin cognac versus the easy-to-obtain Remy Martin XO Cognac. It was good but was it 400% better (because that's how much more expensive it was?)
I find myself thinking, as I often do here: yes, exactly 😀
Living in Edinburgh I think they captured well its austere and windswept beauty!
I wonder if, as with Copland's Appalachian Spring, it happened by coincidence.
Great article. I really do love Paris-Paris though. For me it’s a rose patchouli perfect for as gray a day as the liquid itself is. I can only do it occasionally, but I love it.
The least banal and best of the lot, I agree, is Edimbourg. Great review as always!
I loved Edimbourg in the beginning, but after a while it started reminding me for some reason of Kenzo pour Homme which I had negative connotations with. I had to get rid of my bottle....
I kind of like the idea of aspiring to being relentlessly chic but think it might make one a bit weary...
The god Chic is known to be cruel.
How true!
There’s a great deal of stompin’ at the Savoy, let me tell you. The pressure gets you down
Yes undoubtedly but when you’re in bizness —which she was — this was networking & bldg yr clientele. She was ambitious above all.
Ciao Luca. Hope all is well.
Not related at all to this topic, but you may not be aware of this article from the Guardian, a piece on Brian Eno :
https://www.theguardian.com/music/2025/jan/11/i-dont-like-being-revered-brian-eno-on-art-ai-and-why-he-hates-talking-about-david-bowie
The whole thing is worth a read, but I thought you and Tania may get a kick out of the following quote :
"It’s one we share, actually: smell. I know that Eno is a perfume-head, like me, and What Art Does provides a convenient excuse to bring it up. In their eclectic reading list at the back of the book, alongside Baudrillard, Morse Peckham and “Wikipedia”, Adriaanse and Eno have included Perfumes: The Guide by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez, which aficionados know as one of the great books of art criticism of the 21st century (non-aficionado’s tend to think “Huh? Perfumes?”, until they read it)."
Wow! Thank you. Eno may not like being revered, but I don’t know how else to feel about him 😊
Totally agree. The Bowie Berlin trilogy, Talking Heads Remain in Light, and Philip Glass’ ENO-Bowie tributes are brilliant.
Yes, I agree Luca. So much great music, and so much influence (and respect) throughout the industry.
What I love about this critique is how, when he describes the one scent that rises to poetry, the writing itself synchronously rises to poetry: "... polite and into poetic territory" - - the faceted plays on the p and t consonants are a part of that.
Good for airport sniffing while waiting for a delayed flight.
Hilarious, love this!
I too feel that Chanel has done fresh much more memorably-with the Eau de Cologne (sadly more expensive).
From a marketing perspective, it's interesting that here in the US the eaux appear to inhabit the intermediate space between the regular line and the exclusives. They're less available than the regulars, but easier to find than the exclusives.
I love Edimbourg - it’s one that I really enjoy in Autumn (I imagine Claudia Winkelman in the The Traitors wearing it). Deauville was also a Summer favourite but despite carefully storing it, the second summer it had lost all its zing. Cue a very sad face from me!
Perhaps if that section of the store is deserted and the fragrances are so transparent that even a capsule review is overmuch, then might we just as well skip the jus and wear Chanel-branded plaques about our necks? Say, one is en route to Biarritz… https://antiquitieswarehouse.com/products/french-maritime-sign
I’d love one of those.
You might accumulate an entourage, like a tour guide, or at the very least a passenger to chauffeur.
Useful information - I will sample with caution. It is possible to die of good taste - as I am right here to tell ya.
Thank you, LT. I was very much hoping for your impressions of these, of which I'm in agreement.
Deauville and Edimbourg are my favorites.
I guess when it comes to us all here, knowing that a fragrance is done with well-made-materials but also dull is important.
Reading this made me think about tasting Louis XV Remy Martin cognac versus the easy-to-obtain Remy Martin XO Cognac. It was good but was it 400% better (because that's how much more expensive it was?)
Have you tried the Armenian stuff? It may upset your very reasonable calculations https://www.finedrams.com/ararat-nairi-20-year-old-brandy.html
That looks great, no I haven't but I will keep my eyes open here on Miami shelves. I work with an Armenian, I might ask him if he's seen it around.