I had exaclty the ame experience of "hyposmia" in Death Valley, where hygrometry is probably even below 0% !
Not only the intensity of the fragrance I had taken there was much lower, but the perception of fragrance itself was modified. Only the louder base notes were able to fly away, along with some salicylates. I could hardly recognize it.
Back to Mitsouko, your story made me realize that perfumes are not only the image of an era, but are also space dependant.
Would He have created Mitsouko anywhere else than in Paris and its damp atmosphere, the balance of the accords would have been entirely different, and the result as we know it, non-existant... Freaky !
How is it that Lake Tahoe can support a fabulous vintage fragrance store but New York City can't? I mean, yeah, I know why: rents and the slow disappearance of all kinds of retail, specialty and otherwise. Just because I know why doesn't make it any less sad.
Sad to read this! When last I lived in NYC there was still a tiny shop somewhere that had every last little thing you could want. Same in London, which used to be a shopper's paradise.
I feel like New York City perfume culture...isn't what it could be, I guess? I know living here gives me an easy access to fragrant things that few Americans have (a FREDERIC MALLE store just opened in my nabe, for crying out loud), yet I'm always left thinking there should be more here. Maybe not at the level of Paris, but better than what we have now. Maybe it was always like this? I wouldn't know. I suspect not, since so many of the cultural landmarks that drew me into the city back in the late '80s/early '90s—book and record stores, movie theaters, performance spaces, alternative newsweeklies—are gone and seemingly irretrievable; perfumed spaces must be in the same boat, right?
(FWIW, the Frederic Malle store I mentioned seems to have replaced the other Upper East Side location with the "smelling chambers.")
I had a minor issue during an order from Fragrance Vault due to a misunderstanding, and Jana was 100% on top of it, made it right, communicated swiftly and clearly, and was just all-around lovely to deal with. Highly recommended. Check out their Instagram page for little chats and smell sessions. Wonderful.
Bingo ;-). When I left the humid midwest and moved to the dry, dry southwest I realized how much air moisture impacted my perception of scent -- it 'dampened' that sense, a lot :-).
A cousin has been singing the praises of 'Fragrance Vault' for years now -- she's not really a fan girl, but knows of my affliction since we were kids. I've never been to Tahoe, but it's been on my radar for some time now, as the others here from the western states have been saying -- ' A road trip may be in order.... before long'. ;-)
I feel a bit sheepish to ask: what characteristics or signs distinguish between “niche” and “artisan”? I was probably day-dreaming and writing love-letters when we covered this. Can anyone please share their homework with me?
I think the main difference between "niche" and "artisanal" is that where niche firms hire PR people, artisanal firms can fit their operations in the basement of your average suburban split-level ranch.
Thanks—funny that when Jana and Luca discussed “niche” (just released on instagram) they began with L’Artisan Parfumeur! I think I get it, though. Niche was perhaps that first wave of independent upstarts that has by now, if still in business, by definition, somewhat deeper pockets than the new young, small-budget but ambitious entrepreneurs, who are the artisan. (This can get boorish and pedantic very quickly. With apologies.) Perhaps there are also a lot of self-taught perfumers among the artisans, rather than academic or industrial chemists. Something like that. But it was telling that Jana and Luca quickly turned to observing that there’s a perhaps more useful distinction between a few new perfumers who are more interested in structural style, accords and effects over time—one might say not just harmony, but melodies too—in particular, an interest in revisiting the classical, touchstone perfumes. That is helpful and an intriguing idea to follow up on.
I apologise if I’m seeing humour when it’s not there but your split-level ranch basement had me loling. Do they hand cook the small batches of single estate cat food on the mezzanine?
Oh my God! I want to go to this store! What am amazing place! (BTW, I work at school and also noticed that teenage boys are interested in fragrances much more than girls!)
Thank you for sharing your delightful side trip, LT! I'm reminded of the time I took a vintage Vent Vert decant to Vegas with me, and discovered how wonky it smelled on me out there. Very odd and discordant.
Thank you so much for sharing this story.
I had exaclty the ame experience of "hyposmia" in Death Valley, where hygrometry is probably even below 0% !
Not only the intensity of the fragrance I had taken there was much lower, but the perception of fragrance itself was modified. Only the louder base notes were able to fly away, along with some salicylates. I could hardly recognize it.
Back to Mitsouko, your story made me realize that perfumes are not only the image of an era, but are also space dependant.
Would He have created Mitsouko anywhere else than in Paris and its damp atmosphere, the balance of the accords would have been entirely different, and the result as we know it, non-existant... Freaky !
Thank you again.
Very interesting!
How is it that Lake Tahoe can support a fabulous vintage fragrance store but New York City can't? I mean, yeah, I know why: rents and the slow disappearance of all kinds of retail, specialty and otherwise. Just because I know why doesn't make it any less sad.
Sad to read this! When last I lived in NYC there was still a tiny shop somewhere that had every last little thing you could want. Same in London, which used to be a shopper's paradise.
I feel like New York City perfume culture...isn't what it could be, I guess? I know living here gives me an easy access to fragrant things that few Americans have (a FREDERIC MALLE store just opened in my nabe, for crying out loud), yet I'm always left thinking there should be more here. Maybe not at the level of Paris, but better than what we have now. Maybe it was always like this? I wouldn't know. I suspect not, since so many of the cultural landmarks that drew me into the city back in the late '80s/early '90s—book and record stores, movie theaters, performance spaces, alternative newsweeklies—are gone and seemingly irretrievable; perfumed spaces must be in the same boat, right?
(FWIW, the Frederic Malle store I mentioned seems to have replaced the other Upper East Side location with the "smelling chambers.")
I had a minor issue during an order from Fragrance Vault due to a misunderstanding, and Jana was 100% on top of it, made it right, communicated swiftly and clearly, and was just all-around lovely to deal with. Highly recommended. Check out their Instagram page for little chats and smell sessions. Wonderful.
Jana is a delight! I've purchased from her. Those factices behind her—wow wow wow. How I'd LOVE to have a giant factice of Vivre de Molyneux.
What a treat! I live in Berkeley and I’m in Tahoe annually, but never heard of this. Can’t wait to visit.
Oh what a trip!!! Thanks for bringing us along. Now I have to make a pilgrimage myself
One of my perfume goals is to visit Fragrance Vault!
Bingo ;-). When I left the humid midwest and moved to the dry, dry southwest I realized how much air moisture impacted my perception of scent -- it 'dampened' that sense, a lot :-).
A cousin has been singing the praises of 'Fragrance Vault' for years now -- she's not really a fan girl, but knows of my affliction since we were kids. I've never been to Tahoe, but it's been on my radar for some time now, as the others here from the western states have been saying -- ' A road trip may be in order.... before long'. ;-)
Wow wow wow! I think a field trip must be put on the calendar!
Fragrance Vault is a hidden treasure. I love buying from them and they always sneak extra goodies into my order. Top notch customer service!
Looking around the store, its like I have died and went to heaven. Perfume heaven would be the only one I'd be happy to believe in.
I feel a bit sheepish to ask: what characteristics or signs distinguish between “niche” and “artisan”? I was probably day-dreaming and writing love-letters when we covered this. Can anyone please share their homework with me?
I think the main difference between "niche" and "artisanal" is that where niche firms hire PR people, artisanal firms can fit their operations in the basement of your average suburban split-level ranch.
Thanks—funny that when Jana and Luca discussed “niche” (just released on instagram) they began with L’Artisan Parfumeur! I think I get it, though. Niche was perhaps that first wave of independent upstarts that has by now, if still in business, by definition, somewhat deeper pockets than the new young, small-budget but ambitious entrepreneurs, who are the artisan. (This can get boorish and pedantic very quickly. With apologies.) Perhaps there are also a lot of self-taught perfumers among the artisans, rather than academic or industrial chemists. Something like that. But it was telling that Jana and Luca quickly turned to observing that there’s a perhaps more useful distinction between a few new perfumers who are more interested in structural style, accords and effects over time—one might say not just harmony, but melodies too—in particular, an interest in revisiting the classical, touchstone perfumes. That is helpful and an intriguing idea to follow up on.
I apologise if I’m seeing humour when it’s not there but your split-level ranch basement had me loling. Do they hand cook the small batches of single estate cat food on the mezzanine?
I have bought a few items from Fragrance Vault, wonderful store and Jana is great to deal with, so knowledgeable.
Nice! Had not heard of this store... Will have to go there this fall when I return my son to UC DAVIS...
Oh my God! I want to go to this store! What am amazing place! (BTW, I work at school and also noticed that teenage boys are interested in fragrances much more than girls!)
Thank you for sharing your delightful side trip, LT! I'm reminded of the time I took a vintage Vent Vert decant to Vegas with me, and discovered how wonky it smelled on me out there. Very odd and discordant.