Oh- one more. In one of Richard Feynman’s books, he describes a long row of books that hadn’t been touched in a long time. He had a friend pick one out, handle it for a bit, then put it back, without letting Feynman see. Feynman then sniffed each book spine and was immediately able to tell which one was handled- it had a different smell to it. I tried this with a friend an old set of encyclopedias- it was funny as he cleverly selected the last one, and I started to panic when I reached almost the end and they had all smelled alike- until BOOM I hit the last one and the smell of FRESH HUMAN on it hit me like a ton of bricks and I burst out laughing. Sooooo my question is - have you tried this? And if not, please do because it is a very interesting experience and you will feel like a good dog :)
Try it today! If you have an old set of encyclopedias it’s perfect as they’re relatively uniform and presumably untouched. It has to be months since they were handled. Don’t have the person handling the single book wear any scent. You’ll see- there is a distinct warm, soft (but to me otherwise indescribable) smell halo that you’ll be able to detect- as if the book were almost glowing compared to the musty others.
Aha! I knew it. Thank you for asking. I love it because it is the logical evolution of the floral bouquet towards a fade-to-white thing that was implicit in the so-called LOTV aldehydes (bourgeonal, florhydral, etc) and was done perfectly by Calice Becker via Tommy Girl.
I wear Tommy Girl in the summer. I also bought a bottle of Beyond Paradise on first sniff, altho I don't have any of it now. Diorissimo was my signature scent back in the day. I used up the last of the vintage I had, and haven't bothered to look for more. What would you recommend for an LOTV scent that is not too synthetic, if you know what I mean?
I am in a perfume rut, where after a decade or more of happy sniffing I can no longer bring myself to get excited about novelty. Don’t get me wrong - I still enjoy revisiting what I know, but the thrill of the new has faded. Have you ever had to get yourself out of a similar rut (and if so, how) and what genuinely excitingly novel perfumes are out there? Especially (and this might be a tough one) the commercial confines of a Duty Free?
I suspect that what you call a rut is simply getting to the point where only the truly extraordinary will get you excited. I've been there for a while.
Same with cheese traders. They get (subconsciously?) bored with the milder cheeses and always recommend the most spicy, tangy and pungent. Presumably, if one keeps loading the olfactory senses it increases the demand for the extreme?
Have you ever come across studies on dog's noses you would care to write about? A dog lover and to a certain extent 'understander' is asking. My experience with our dog, a German Shepherd, has been deeply impacted by raising her according a method that uses the dog's most important senses, smell and touch, instead of sight and hearing. That dogs are God's experiment with the nose (as a wise man once said) is well known, but I can still be amazed when standing behind my dog so she can't see me, and raising an arm, her looking immediately at, or hiding something in a place where I think she will never find it and her getting it in under a minute. I am not sure if she likes my perfumes though, although is she would it would be the most indolic ones. Anyway, anything you write on dogs and noses is much appreciated.
Cheating with a second question/request. Can you thank Tania for her editing? Which perfumes is Tania wearing at the moment? I guess what I am really saying is that I sometimes miss her voice :-)
I am forever impressed by what dogs can do. This said their (and cats') indifference to perfumes is the only thing that makes me think we are superior beings. I briefly enjoyed what must have been like a dog's sense of smell when I had two days of hyperesthesia a few years ago after taking tizanidine and stopping abruptly. It was amazing and not all that pleasant.
1. I am desperately seeking the perfect iris scent given that Iris silver mist is discontinued. I came across a sample of “Lumiere d’iris” by Veronique Gabai And was interested if you had ever come across it
2. I was wondering if you had an opinion on Teo Cabanel’s Alahine
3. Thank you (and Tania) for your amazing contribution to the world of scent and, for always steering our olfactory senses in the right direction
Thank you and I hope one day that you might review both of those fragrances. I was given Alahine as a gift and like it immensely. I am intrigued by Lumiere d’iris and was considering buying it but again like many niche scents hard to have it shipped to Australia
Sorry to butt in, but I had a sample of Iris Lumiere, which I used right up as it was lovely, very "irisy" but also soft and suave, and it lasted well. Very pricy-and I don't see it discussed much. I will go looking for another sample! Thanks for the reminder!
You’re welcome, glad someone else likes it. I have read some reviews on Fragrantica which were positive but there aren’t many reviews out there so it’s nice to get feedback on it. Thank you and please, always butt in
I don’t think Iris Silver Mist is discontinued - it just seems to come and go on the SL website. I assume they make it in small batches and it sells out quickly.
Have you ever considered (out of curiosity) to smell/review cheaper Arabian houses that are nevertheless invested in their perfumery? Lattafa for example - they have Raghba and a few more. I am really curious what you think of Raghba.
My thoughts exactly! I visited Krigler at the Four Seasons in Houston several years back because I was very curious about famous Lovely Patchouli. Nothing I sniffed made enough of an impression on me to be able to recount it now...
How much of interest in fragrance do you think is genetic vs learned? How much do you think is just a general personality factor of “curiosity” vs something more specific for sensory curiosity (a non-kinesthetic adventurousness), or even olfactory curiosity? I have two kids and one could barely care less about scent, the other is completely into it and wants to excitedly try everything- both were raised similarly and the difference is striking and fascinating.
What do you recommend for home fragrances? I cannot stand the diffusers etc that are widely available, but I do appreciate a delicious ambient scent. I seem to remember you mentioning spraying Mitsouko on your curtains. What is your preference for a delivery system (spraying fabrics in a room, spraying bedding, recommended candles maybe)? And which scents do you find lovely for different rooms (living rooms, bathrooms, bedrooms)?
Have you watched "Fanfan" with Sophie Marceau? I watched it as a child (not necessarily appropriate for a child) and literally all I can remember is that she is training to become a perfumer. Is it possible to become a perfumer without speaking French...?
Are there any DIY perfume kits on sale that you would recommend to someone who would like to try their hand at creating their own perfume, or is this generally not a good idea for someone with no relevant training whatsoever?
I don't know much about that, but Perfumers' Apprentice is really good and Frater seems to offer good stuff. I would NEVER discourage anyone from trying something!
Oh- one more. In one of Richard Feynman’s books, he describes a long row of books that hadn’t been touched in a long time. He had a friend pick one out, handle it for a bit, then put it back, without letting Feynman see. Feynman then sniffed each book spine and was immediately able to tell which one was handled- it had a different smell to it. I tried this with a friend an old set of encyclopedias- it was funny as he cleverly selected the last one, and I started to panic when I reached almost the end and they had all smelled alike- until BOOM I hit the last one and the smell of FRESH HUMAN on it hit me like a ton of bricks and I burst out laughing. Sooooo my question is - have you tried this? And if not, please do because it is a very interesting experience and you will feel like a good dog :)
No, I haven't tried it and am amazed it works!
Try it today! If you have an old set of encyclopedias it’s perfect as they’re relatively uniform and presumably untouched. It has to be months since they were handled. Don’t have the person handling the single book wear any scent. You’ll see- there is a distinct warm, soft (but to me otherwise indescribable) smell halo that you’ll be able to detect- as if the book were almost glowing compared to the musty others.
That makes sense. But if I recall in the original Feynman story he could then tell _who_ had handled it!
I think he had a lineup with people holding out their palms and sniffed each one and was able to tell! I bet you could as well.
Sorry, not a question but a recommendation. I especially like the review of Cockatiel: '...an old man saying “flower” in a deep voice' https://www.reddit.com/r/fragrance/comments/1jg3p46/my_8_year_old_sons_zoologist_reviews/
Wonderful!!!!
I really hope this kid continues down the path of reviewing fragrances, preferably with no stylistic changes
My son :) I hope so too! I’m thrilled he has a passion for smelling and describing.
It's fantastic! I can't go far beyond "mm, nice" and "hmm, yuck" so to have that talent at 8 is so impressive
omg. A hot pool of seltzer water mixed with scorpions. I am suddenly phobic, of what I'm not sure, for the first time in my life.
why do you love Beyond Paradise?
Aha! I knew it. Thank you for asking. I love it because it is the logical evolution of the floral bouquet towards a fade-to-white thing that was implicit in the so-called LOTV aldehydes (bourgeonal, florhydral, etc) and was done perfectly by Calice Becker via Tommy Girl.
I wear Tommy Girl in the summer. I also bought a bottle of Beyond Paradise on first sniff, altho I don't have any of it now. Diorissimo was my signature scent back in the day. I used up the last of the vintage I had, and haven't bothered to look for more. What would you recommend for an LOTV scent that is not too synthetic, if you know what I mean?
I am in a perfume rut, where after a decade or more of happy sniffing I can no longer bring myself to get excited about novelty. Don’t get me wrong - I still enjoy revisiting what I know, but the thrill of the new has faded. Have you ever had to get yourself out of a similar rut (and if so, how) and what genuinely excitingly novel perfumes are out there? Especially (and this might be a tough one) the commercial confines of a Duty Free?
I suspect that what you call a rut is simply getting to the point where only the truly extraordinary will get you excited. I've been there for a while.
Same with cheese traders. They get (subconsciously?) bored with the milder cheeses and always recommend the most spicy, tangy and pungent. Presumably, if one keeps loading the olfactory senses it increases the demand for the extreme?
Thanks! Would love to know what you have sniffed in the last year that falls into the “truly extraordinary” category.
cf my substack passim 😊
I can tell, lol ;-)
Have you ever come across studies on dog's noses you would care to write about? A dog lover and to a certain extent 'understander' is asking. My experience with our dog, a German Shepherd, has been deeply impacted by raising her according a method that uses the dog's most important senses, smell and touch, instead of sight and hearing. That dogs are God's experiment with the nose (as a wise man once said) is well known, but I can still be amazed when standing behind my dog so she can't see me, and raising an arm, her looking immediately at, or hiding something in a place where I think she will never find it and her getting it in under a minute. I am not sure if she likes my perfumes though, although is she would it would be the most indolic ones. Anyway, anything you write on dogs and noses is much appreciated.
Cheating with a second question/request. Can you thank Tania for her editing? Which perfumes is Tania wearing at the moment? I guess what I am really saying is that I sometimes miss her voice :-)
I am forever impressed by what dogs can do. This said their (and cats') indifference to perfumes is the only thing that makes me think we are superior beings. I briefly enjoyed what must have been like a dog's sense of smell when I had two days of hyperesthesia a few years ago after taking tizanidine and stopping abruptly. It was amazing and not all that pleasant.
Which discontinued perfumes do you most miss?
All the Diors, all the Cotys, Lucien Lelong, Rosine...
I miss the original Carons - the updated versions make me weep.
Ahh Lucien Lelong
1. I am desperately seeking the perfect iris scent given that Iris silver mist is discontinued. I came across a sample of “Lumiere d’iris” by Veronique Gabai And was interested if you had ever come across it
2. I was wondering if you had an opinion on Teo Cabanel’s Alahine
3. Thank you (and Tania) for your amazing contribution to the world of scent and, for always steering our olfactory senses in the right direction
1 & 2 Gabai: No. Cabanel's Alahine: Nope
3: Thank you and will pass it on to TS!
Thank you and I hope one day that you might review both of those fragrances. I was given Alahine as a gift and like it immensely. I am intrigued by Lumiere d’iris and was considering buying it but again like many niche scents hard to have it shipped to Australia
Sorry to butt in, but I had a sample of Iris Lumiere, which I used right up as it was lovely, very "irisy" but also soft and suave, and it lasted well. Very pricy-and I don't see it discussed much. I will go looking for another sample! Thanks for the reminder!
You’re welcome, glad someone else likes it. I have read some reviews on Fragrantica which were positive but there aren’t many reviews out there so it’s nice to get feedback on it. Thank you and please, always butt in
It was initially very expensive, but I see bottle for sale on eBay at less stratospheric prices. I may buy some too now. I really do enjoy wearing it.
Iris Silver Mist is not discontinued, they're just always slow to restock. It is currently available online and in the Paris boutiques.
Yes thank you, poor choice of words. Just can’t get it in Australia
I don’t think Iris Silver Mist is discontinued - it just seems to come and go on the SL website. I assume they make it in small batches and it sells out quickly.
Yes it sells out quickly and the problem is is also doesn’t ship to Australia
Have you ever considered (out of curiosity) to smell/review cheaper Arabian houses that are nevertheless invested in their perfumery? Lattafa for example - they have Raghba and a few more. I am really curious what you think of Raghba.
I would love to! My planned trip to Amman (postponed) was meant to achieve it. Maybe soon.
Yay! I feel like there are so many undiscovered gems! 🐾
Hi Luca, will you consider to review Dominique Ropion's personal perfume brand Aphorismes? Thanks.
Yes, of course. Will try to get hold of them.
Are you familiar with Krigler fragrances? They’re insanely expensive. Are they any good?
$900? Never smelled them but FFS.
My thoughts exactly! I visited Krigler at the Four Seasons in Houston several years back because I was very curious about famous Lovely Patchouli. Nothing I sniffed made enough of an impression on me to be able to recount it now...
How much of interest in fragrance do you think is genetic vs learned? How much do you think is just a general personality factor of “curiosity” vs something more specific for sensory curiosity (a non-kinesthetic adventurousness), or even olfactory curiosity? I have two kids and one could barely care less about scent, the other is completely into it and wants to excitedly try everything- both were raised similarly and the difference is striking and fascinating.
Every damn thing is genetic.
What do you recommend for home fragrances? I cannot stand the diffusers etc that are widely available, but I do appreciate a delicious ambient scent. I seem to remember you mentioning spraying Mitsouko on your curtains. What is your preference for a delivery system (spraying fabrics in a room, spraying bedding, recommended candles maybe)? And which scents do you find lovely for different rooms (living rooms, bathrooms, bedrooms)?
Mitsouko on curtains was Karl Lagerfeld, bless him. I do not use home fragrance but I used to like https://pnicolai.com/section/accessoires/lampes/ as a weird but effective delivery system.
Are you going to review the new flankers of Terre d'Hermès and Habit Rouge?
Since you ask so nicely :-)
Merci bcp🙏
Ah forgot what about 100BON?
thanks for the reminder
What are the best places to sample and buy perfumes in London?
Niche: Bloom, Les Senteurs
Regular: Selfridges, Liberty, Harrods
Thank you!
Have you watched "Fanfan" with Sophie Marceau? I watched it as a child (not necessarily appropriate for a child) and literally all I can remember is that she is training to become a perfumer. Is it possible to become a perfumer without speaking French...?
Yes it's possible and many have!
Are there any DIY perfume kits on sale that you would recommend to someone who would like to try their hand at creating their own perfume, or is this generally not a good idea for someone with no relevant training whatsoever?
I don't know much about that, but Perfumers' Apprentice is really good and Frater seems to offer good stuff. I would NEVER discourage anyone from trying something!