beautiful article, but it is a deep mistake to consider Byc Može as someone's first perfume. It is the opposite, it is a "great lifelong perfume" of women of the communist bloc. Actually, as you write above "any perfume is better than nothing".
Many women of my mother's age were accompanied by it to their children's graduations, to the theater, to concerts, to weddings... in my country, in the former Czechoslovakia.
It was difficult, almost impossible, to obtain any goods, including perfumes, during the Cold War for people hermetically sealed inside the heart of Europe. It is often written that people of the Eastern Bloc had everything they needed, except luxury goods. But "luxury goods" in our country were any deodorant from Coty or Revlon worth 2€. Dior or Chanel perfume was an unaffordable dream that did not come true for most women (even though Dior was produced in Czechoslovakia for a long time). Sometimes even menstrual pads were luxury goods.
But make a long story short: imagine a small closed country where nothing is allowed to be imported, except oranges from Cuba for Christmas, and bicycles on the waiting list from Russia (Soviet Union).
We couldn't go shopping abroad, we had special passports that allowed us to travel only around the Russian bloc of Europe (event not the whole of it) with a very small amount of money (yes, customs officers looked for money in the car at the border and ).
The socialist economy was completely near bankrupt for many reasons, the state was not able to develop and produce anything on its own. Cosmetic companies produced only the necessary things: soap, detergents, washing powders.
Everything else was considered "super-standard" - we know that a dictatorship does not want to treat its inhabitants to better things, because they could cause a desire to "have something more", a better smell, a better taste, a better experience, a better life... and more, which then follows (revolution, check, done :) ).
So in the countries of the entire Eastern Bloc there were only a few - a units - producers of very bad fragrances. And Byc Može was the much demanded IMPORT - foreign goods - that Czechoslovak women could indulge in.
They probably didn't think it was the best perfume in the world - but they couldn't get any other.
As the main gift under the tree, women received tin sprays of Impulse, smuggled from East Germany or Hungary where the regime was for 1% more polite. :)
(Interestingly, they Russians didn´t export relatively decent Novaya Zarya perfumes - they probably couldn't cover domestic demand).
BTW - your "Rose" is some kind of modern flanker, but the original Byc Može was without an adjective and was an aldehyde imitation of No. 5 - simply "No.5 Women of Communism".
I don't know why they still produce it today - probably nostalgia. None of the young women in Poland will definitely take it on as their first perfume when they can have some Arab miracle supported by an influencer for the same money.
I second this. The original of that (I've never smelled this flanker) won't be a "first perfume". It'll likely be an "old ladies" scent. A British equivalent cultural space for Być Może will be L'Aimant.
I'm not old enough for the proper memories of communist era (the "relatively accessible but fancy" fragrances of late communism I remember -- talking 80s now, not 60/70s -- were dollar-shop bought Kobako, Cafe, Masumi and Jovan Musk). Native options of Być Może (Paris version) and Pani Walewska definitely were already "old ladies stuff" by then.
You've done it again! I don't even care if I ever smell this scent. I feel satisfied. There is simply so much pleasure in your writing! The memory-making is real, and there is something about the way certain perfume accelerate the unspooling of fantasy. It's almost frightening. But mostly fabulous.
This is Rome - Być Może flanker after Cussons bought Pollena Uroda. There was also Paris and others. The original was supposed to be a knock off of one of Dior perfumes (Miss Dior allegedly) as Pollena used to produce Dior's fragrances during communist times. It was around when I was a kid (70s)
I didn't enter this week's line of beauty prize, but the winner is ‘Expensive things come with age …. and are therefore consolation prizes’. As the internet would put it, I feel so seen.
(I did enter the pettishly not letting it go prize though, and some manufacturers need to consider their pricing choices in light of this. I’m looking at you, Not-Coty).
Sometimes I remember things that I didn’t know I’d forgotten. Scent, in my view, can aid the process of bringing memories to consciousness. Beautiful writing thank you.
Your story brought so much back. My youth in its youth 'poverty' and buying LOVE's Baby Soft and Jovan Musk. High school scents of the 70's and so popular for us drug store girls. My first true expensive perfume purchase came later: Poison. :) I absolutely love reading your blogs, posts and of course your books. I reread them and learn more each time. Thank you Mr Turin.
Luca, on this specific day - a wistful, nostalgic one - your article moved me, as so many do, and a sting came to my eyes when reading about youth and the consolation prizes in adulthood.
(I just saw yesterday a social media video of a young guy sitting among sand dunes and sea oats, observing the sunset, and contemplating the simple youthful moment, and I drew a connection between that video and your piece.)
In a separate note, I love Magnolan, which to me smells floral, leaning bright citrus. In my recent exploration of raw materials, I smelled it and was instantly reminded of Terre d’Hermes, and later discovered it’s a component. Always interesting to see what impact these materials have on different fragrances. Now I want to smell Być Może.
Hi Luca,
beautiful article, but it is a deep mistake to consider Byc Može as someone's first perfume. It is the opposite, it is a "great lifelong perfume" of women of the communist bloc. Actually, as you write above "any perfume is better than nothing".
Many women of my mother's age were accompanied by it to their children's graduations, to the theater, to concerts, to weddings... in my country, in the former Czechoslovakia.
It was difficult, almost impossible, to obtain any goods, including perfumes, during the Cold War for people hermetically sealed inside the heart of Europe. It is often written that people of the Eastern Bloc had everything they needed, except luxury goods. But "luxury goods" in our country were any deodorant from Coty or Revlon worth 2€. Dior or Chanel perfume was an unaffordable dream that did not come true for most women (even though Dior was produced in Czechoslovakia for a long time). Sometimes even menstrual pads were luxury goods.
But make a long story short: imagine a small closed country where nothing is allowed to be imported, except oranges from Cuba for Christmas, and bicycles on the waiting list from Russia (Soviet Union).
We couldn't go shopping abroad, we had special passports that allowed us to travel only around the Russian bloc of Europe (event not the whole of it) with a very small amount of money (yes, customs officers looked for money in the car at the border and ).
The socialist economy was completely near bankrupt for many reasons, the state was not able to develop and produce anything on its own. Cosmetic companies produced only the necessary things: soap, detergents, washing powders.
Everything else was considered "super-standard" - we know that a dictatorship does not want to treat its inhabitants to better things, because they could cause a desire to "have something more", a better smell, a better taste, a better experience, a better life... and more, which then follows (revolution, check, done :) ).
So in the countries of the entire Eastern Bloc there were only a few - a units - producers of very bad fragrances. And Byc Može was the much demanded IMPORT - foreign goods - that Czechoslovak women could indulge in.
They probably didn't think it was the best perfume in the world - but they couldn't get any other.
As the main gift under the tree, women received tin sprays of Impulse, smuggled from East Germany or Hungary where the regime was for 1% more polite. :)
(Interestingly, they Russians didn´t export relatively decent Novaya Zarya perfumes - they probably couldn't cover domestic demand).
BTW - your "Rose" is some kind of modern flanker, but the original Byc Može was without an adjective and was an aldehyde imitation of No. 5 - simply "No.5 Women of Communism".
I don't know why they still produce it today - probably nostalgia. None of the young women in Poland will definitely take it on as their first perfume when they can have some Arab miracle supported by an influencer for the same money.
Have you smelled this Rome flanker?
Luca, don't tempt me, I already bought Helietta Caracciolo and Tommy Girl!
I second this. The original of that (I've never smelled this flanker) won't be a "first perfume". It'll likely be an "old ladies" scent. A British equivalent cultural space for Być Może will be L'Aimant.
I'm not old enough for the proper memories of communist era (the "relatively accessible but fancy" fragrances of late communism I remember -- talking 80s now, not 60/70s -- were dollar-shop bought Kobako, Cafe, Masumi and Jovan Musk). Native options of Być Może (Paris version) and Pani Walewska definitely were already "old ladies stuff" by then.
But have you smelled this Rome flanker?
Yes, we all need to start somewhere. Even Blue Nun is a wine, technically.
Blue Nun 😂. But also how dare you - I grew up in a Black Tower area.
You've done it again! I don't even care if I ever smell this scent. I feel satisfied. There is simply so much pleasure in your writing! The memory-making is real, and there is something about the way certain perfume accelerate the unspooling of fantasy. It's almost frightening. But mostly fabulous.
Love this comment!
This is Rome - Być Może flanker after Cussons bought Pollena Uroda. There was also Paris and others. The original was supposed to be a knock off of one of Dior perfumes (Miss Dior allegedly) as Pollena used to produce Dior's fragrances during communist times. It was around when I was a kid (70s)
I didn't enter this week's line of beauty prize, but the winner is ‘Expensive things come with age …. and are therefore consolation prizes’. As the internet would put it, I feel so seen.
(I did enter the pettishly not letting it go prize though, and some manufacturers need to consider their pricing choices in light of this. I’m looking at you, Not-Coty).
I loved that comparison of age with cheap/expensive things too, Emma. It made me feel so nostalgic.
Thought-provoking post, LT. Thank you!
Damned good writing.
Thank you Daniel.
Beautiful!
Sometimes I remember things that I didn’t know I’d forgotten. Scent, in my view, can aid the process of bringing memories to consciousness. Beautiful writing thank you.
Ivoire, you say?!? Magnolan. And it’s strong? I need a moment, I’m incoherent, but I had to say something.
:-D
Потрясающий текст!
большое спасибо!
This resonated. Deeply so. And also brought some tears.
Thank you.
Your story brought so much back. My youth in its youth 'poverty' and buying LOVE's Baby Soft and Jovan Musk. High school scents of the 70's and so popular for us drug store girls. My first true expensive perfume purchase came later: Poison. :) I absolutely love reading your blogs, posts and of course your books. I reread them and learn more each time. Thank you Mr Turin.
Luca, on this specific day - a wistful, nostalgic one - your article moved me, as so many do, and a sting came to my eyes when reading about youth and the consolation prizes in adulthood.
(I just saw yesterday a social media video of a young guy sitting among sand dunes and sea oats, observing the sunset, and contemplating the simple youthful moment, and I drew a connection between that video and your piece.)
In a separate note, I love Magnolan, which to me smells floral, leaning bright citrus. In my recent exploration of raw materials, I smelled it and was instantly reminded of Terre d’Hermes, and later discovered it’s a component. Always interesting to see what impact these materials have on different fragrances. Now I want to smell Być Może.
As always, thank you!
Thank you for your kind words.
beautiful post. reminds me of your folio texts stylistically
Yes same length! Thank you.
This post makes me wonder if Być Moz has the same effect as like Design by Paul Sebastian
This is a beautiful musing! There’s a lot to unpack here ❤️