9 Comments

This is off point, but in case you are getting to the end of your Cartier explorations (which I have loved): Have you ever revisited vintage Le Must de Cartier? Your review was pretty scathing in the book, and in light of how often I DO agree with your other reviews, I have wondered if there might have been any evolution in your feelings on Le Must. Classic extrait de parfum being the best exemplar, in my experience of the scent.

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Thank you. I did not ask for it to be sent because I wanted to focus on ML’s work. I will try to smell it when I get a chance.

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I tried these carefully and I agree, these are all just very nice office scents. Allegresse brought back fond memories of my first year with an office job, wearing Eau de Cartier, as there was something in it similar to EdC. It almost made me want to spring for a bottle of that Nagel creation, but I now find it more of a masculine cologne for some reason.

They were all vegetal, snapped green stalks, Ellena-like. That’s my vague inexperienced take on them.

Really I do think Eau de Cartier would do the trick if you want a kind of green cologne.

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Apr 25Liked by Luca Turin 🇮🇹🇪🇺

In the interview with Laurent on the Parfumerie podcast, as I recall it, she said she just steeps herself in Cartier’s distinctive character and so I think she was giving a nod to Eau de Cartier. I haven’t smelled that in 20 years but I did think of it. I recommend that podcast interview even if you don’t understand much French, give it a try. Also listen to their interview with Imprezzabile. It’s in English, French and Italian, depending on how the perfumer is feeling at that moment.

If I could sum up a trio of perfumes the way Tania did here, well, I’d publish a best-selling perfume guide or something.

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I really don’t understand the classification systems in the Michael Edwards database and the new Wikiparfim project he’s collaborating on. To him, the only fougeres around are aromatic ones, including the classics like Brut and Fougere Royale (the original for Christ’s sake!) and stuff like Yatagan somehow ends up as a chypre. How does that figure???

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To be fair, he's doing a great job at an exceedingly difficult task.

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Apr 25Liked by Luca Turin 🇮🇹🇪🇺

I suspect it’s the Puig people working with him that are screwing it up; the website provides both their classification of it and the FotW classification, and the latter makes so much more sense. I cannot imagine otherwise how Yatagan went from a Woody Amber Rich (a perfectly apt description) to a Woody Chypre (?????).

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Yatagan is definitely Rich, whatever else it may be.

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