I'm going to be in the minority, and I actually can't believe I'm writing this, but while I've been 'déguster à la petite cuillère' everything you've been posting, there were so many brands, lines, etc. that feel quite niche squared *to me* (or more likely, it's my being completely out of the loop for way too long)...
I've had a number of times the "parent trying to get an interest in their teenagers favorite ultra-obscure-rebel bands, hearing 47 names and then each band's dozen 'you CAN'T miss this one, it's FIRE' songs, and then throw their arms biblically to the sky and go away, defeated, to listen to Metallica for comfort" effect.
I know many of the "historical niches" have bourgeoised/corporated up (and/or jumped the shark indeed), but it would be nice to have a bit of a catch-up? Like, the middle-tier between designer and cutting-edge niche? For nostalgy's sake, you know.
I do still think Sad But True is, like, the best song ever, after all.
Pretty much how I feel. The niche is almost too niche for me, I just like to marvel at Turin’s descriptions and imagine the perfume, but I don’t order samples because I don’t see myself wearing it. So many perfumes so little time, and at this point I am looking for beauty not novelty and tend to prefer proven classics or proven perfumers. There are a couple of perfumers I had discovered before this Substack that I enjoyed seeing here, Marc Antoine C…. And Meo Fuscini. Additionally what really peaked my interest for actually wearing are La Panthere de Cartier (mainstream) and the Roberto Grecos. (Mention Christopher Sheldrake and I will try, Rauque is something else, I guess sometimes I do like an unusual perfume.)
So I actually chose mainstream brands as my answer.
I also enjoy takes on everyday items like soap and candles and perhaps revisiting old things. I just lucked out with a version of Diorella on eBay that is so good, just what I was looking for, perhaps from before the reformulations of whenever that was, 10-20 years ago. Fruity and heavy in the right places, yum, love this Diorella!
Anyway, what makes this Substack unique is jTurin’s depth of knowledge and ability to capture a perfume in a few words.
When there are 3,000 new scents being released every year, I'd rather you follow your nose and do what you want. You'll go nuts trying to be a perfume critic juke box.
I don’t recall if you’ve written about Balenciaga? I think I’ve read pretty much everything you’ve published (including the Folio columns) 🤔 Would love to read your thoughts on “classics” like Cialenga, Michelle, Le Dix and Cristobal.
Definately the mainstream. That’s where navigation (read: storting the wheat from the chaff) is needed. Who doesn’t love a well crafted gem for fifty bucks, and there are plenty to be found! Niche, to me anyway, is more personal and subjective and I’m honestly more helped by my own nose then.
Both, ideally. I personally have less fun only reading about brands and products I’ve never heard of, but I don’t mind a mix. I do very much look forward to your takes on fall designer releases, especially the new pillar from Hermes, and id be very curious to hear your take on the two new Creeds. They’re SO different from the usual offerings.
Coming late to the party, I can only say I second the more widespread thought: both, which realistically means, a bit more mainstream. But what I really would like from you, maestro, is a bigger splash. A new, revised, edited, augmented version of the Guide(s). Updated to 2024/25. What’s in is in, what’s out is out. I’m old enough to crave for the paper; I’ve been a book editor long enough to know how sadly hard it has got to publish that way. So if it has to be online let it be online. Yes, I know such a work should be adequately financed. But let me dream of Luca Turin’s opus magnum ❣️
Thank you Paola. I think a book like that would be a full-time retirement project, i.e. incompatible with my current day job. Also Tania is not interested in further writing about perfume, so I'd be on my own. In the end, time and money will decide.
I like somewhere in the middle, the “exclusive” lines of major fashion houses and the larger, more established niche houses. I’m never going to sniff most of the smaller, obscure niche or indie lines and the major brands mainstream releases have been getting steadily worse since anyone with more than a passing interest in fragrance buys some type of niche now.
I think the sweet spot for most aficionados now is in the middle!
I got some samples of that line for free with another perfume purchase and I’m afraid I didn’t like them at all. The Englishwoman behind Papillon would be my preference. She knows what she’s doing!
We need an option for “both”
I second this!
My thoughts precisely
I'm going to be in the minority, and I actually can't believe I'm writing this, but while I've been 'déguster à la petite cuillère' everything you've been posting, there were so many brands, lines, etc. that feel quite niche squared *to me* (or more likely, it's my being completely out of the loop for way too long)...
I've had a number of times the "parent trying to get an interest in their teenagers favorite ultra-obscure-rebel bands, hearing 47 names and then each band's dozen 'you CAN'T miss this one, it's FIRE' songs, and then throw their arms biblically to the sky and go away, defeated, to listen to Metallica for comfort" effect.
I know many of the "historical niches" have bourgeoised/corporated up (and/or jumped the shark indeed), but it would be nice to have a bit of a catch-up? Like, the middle-tier between designer and cutting-edge niche? For nostalgy's sake, you know.
I do still think Sad But True is, like, the best song ever, after all.
Pretty much how I feel. The niche is almost too niche for me, I just like to marvel at Turin’s descriptions and imagine the perfume, but I don’t order samples because I don’t see myself wearing it. So many perfumes so little time, and at this point I am looking for beauty not novelty and tend to prefer proven classics or proven perfumers. There are a couple of perfumers I had discovered before this Substack that I enjoyed seeing here, Marc Antoine C…. And Meo Fuscini. Additionally what really peaked my interest for actually wearing are La Panthere de Cartier (mainstream) and the Roberto Grecos. (Mention Christopher Sheldrake and I will try, Rauque is something else, I guess sometimes I do like an unusual perfume.)
So I actually chose mainstream brands as my answer.
I also enjoy takes on everyday items like soap and candles and perhaps revisiting old things. I just lucked out with a version of Diorella on eBay that is so good, just what I was looking for, perhaps from before the reformulations of whenever that was, 10-20 years ago. Fruity and heavy in the right places, yum, love this Diorella!
Anyway, what makes this Substack unique is jTurin’s depth of knowledge and ability to capture a perfume in a few words.
Beauty not novelty. Perfect.
😂
When there are 3,000 new scents being released every year, I'd rather you follow your nose and do what you want. You'll go nuts trying to be a perfume critic juke box.
It would be fun to see assessments of current formulations of the Chanel or Dior lines.
New accords exist from detergents and bleach to mainstream to niche to artisan and everything in between. I don't discriminate.
I voted niche, but I am also very interested in "quality" mainstream releases reviews (e.g. Chanel, Hermès, Guerlain...)
On the other hand, I don't care about whatever new YSL is being released because they stopped caring about perfume too long ago. ;)
By the way, I would suggest that you look into Les Indemodables, you won't be wasting your time! ;)
But actually both!
I don’t recall if you’ve written about Balenciaga? I think I’ve read pretty much everything you’ve published (including the Folio columns) 🤔 Would love to read your thoughts on “classics” like Cialenga, Michelle, Le Dix and Cristobal.
I'll look in our collection to see what we have from the brand...
Definately the mainstream. That’s where navigation (read: storting the wheat from the chaff) is needed. Who doesn’t love a well crafted gem for fifty bucks, and there are plenty to be found! Niche, to me anyway, is more personal and subjective and I’m honestly more helped by my own nose then.
Whatever fascinates you. I enjoy your writing even if I never try the fragrance
I would prefer 70 percent mainstream with 30 percent dedicated to niche.
Both, ideally. I personally have less fun only reading about brands and products I’ve never heard of, but I don’t mind a mix. I do very much look forward to your takes on fall designer releases, especially the new pillar from Hermes, and id be very curious to hear your take on the two new Creeds. They’re SO different from the usual offerings.
Coming late to the party, I can only say I second the more widespread thought: both, which realistically means, a bit more mainstream. But what I really would like from you, maestro, is a bigger splash. A new, revised, edited, augmented version of the Guide(s). Updated to 2024/25. What’s in is in, what’s out is out. I’m old enough to crave for the paper; I’ve been a book editor long enough to know how sadly hard it has got to publish that way. So if it has to be online let it be online. Yes, I know such a work should be adequately financed. But let me dream of Luca Turin’s opus magnum ❣️
Thank you Paola. I think a book like that would be a full-time retirement project, i.e. incompatible with my current day job. Also Tania is not interested in further writing about perfume, so I'd be on my own. In the end, time and money will decide.
I like somewhere in the middle, the “exclusive” lines of major fashion houses and the larger, more established niche houses. I’m never going to sniff most of the smaller, obscure niche or indie lines and the major brands mainstream releases have been getting steadily worse since anyone with more than a passing interest in fragrance buys some type of niche now.
I think the sweet spot for most aficionados now is in the middle!
Niche all day every day! Ok, but I also enjoy seeing some vintage reviews. 😊
I have superb indie house a suggestion. Dawn Spencer Hurwitz from colorado 🇺🇸
I got some samples of that line for free with another perfume purchase and I’m afraid I didn’t like them at all. The Englishwoman behind Papillon would be my preference. She knows what she’s doing!
Yes please!!!