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Luca Turin 🇮🇹🇪🇺's avatar

Will get back to Guerlain in good time and plug the gaps!

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Jack R.'s avatar

I wish Guerlain would stop its marketeer approach and simply bring back into production: Derby, Mouchoir de M. — and I’d also like the Habit de Fête resurrected.

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Anthôy's avatar

M. Turin, what do you think about L’Homme Idéal Eau de Parfum (EDP) ?

Thanks !

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Luca Turin 🇮🇹🇪🇺's avatar

I like them all, but they could do with better materials.

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Anthôy's avatar

Thanks, I agree with you ! But for me, it’s the best way. EDT has Amber woods that sting my nose

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AlecMolloy's avatar

At the risk of boring people, is there any word on the future of Mouchoir de Monsieur? I bought a bottle in 2014 and then another in 2020. The 2020 is a much more polite lavender. The civet and funky top notes are dialed back. From online research I believe it can still be bought as a refill from Guerlain in Paris. I'm wondering if anyone knows if that will remain the case? I hope it's closer to the old badly behaved stuff I loved.

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Luca Turin 🇮🇹🇪🇺's avatar

I seem to remember it was either being discontinued or sold only in a few places. You could probably achieve a similar effect by using JIcky + any number of recent animalics. Will try it and report back :-)

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AlecMolloy's avatar

Thanks Luca. I'd be extremely grateful. The shock I got the first time I smelt MdM was what dragged me down this perfume rabbit hole. I have tried substituting with Jicky but it felt a bit like going from heroin to morphine. If you have any suggestions on how to to combine it, that would be amazing.

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sneed's avatar

Any word on the current square bottle versions of the original concentrations? Do they do their original formulations justice?

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Luca Turin 🇮🇹🇪🇺's avatar

One more Guerlain post tomorrow, then I’ll take a break from the brand for a while…

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teodora's avatar

Luca what about Heritage?

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michael reid hunter's avatar

Luca, sad about Guerlain's Vetiver; I'll cherish my 1980's bottle. A question: I have gone through one of my favorites, Gucci Rush Men and I don't trust the used bottles for sale with sketchy refills; what is the closest clean cedar (I love the scent of freshly sharpened pencils!) out there?

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Sadiq's avatar

my recs fwiw:

cheap (not quite the same impact as the original but still wearable!) Lalique Encre Noir

mid-range (sublime!) Etat Libre d'Orange Hermann a Mes Cotes

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Umer Bhatti's avatar

Buy some of Robertet Cedre Atlas Heart from a small volume seller of perfume raw materials and fill your heart with joyful pencil sawdust!

(e.g. perfumersupplyhouse in the US)

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Olgadottir's avatar

Mr. Turin, have you had the chance to smell Habit Rouge Prive EdP (in the red square bottle)?

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Luca Turin 🇮🇹🇪🇺's avatar

Will do.

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MCG's avatar

Good start. Looking forward to more in-depth discussion of all three fragrances.

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Maciek “Matt” Kołat's avatar

Could you expand your thought on the similarity between Cool Water and L’Homme Ideal? That sounds very interesting to me.

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Luca Turin 🇮🇹🇪🇺's avatar

Both contain the genius apple note Bourdon invented for Green Irish Tweed and reused in CW.

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Mateusz Nagórski's avatar

In a workshop next to mine there is a guy playing sousaphone. I haven’t been familiar with this one but it’s monumental both in looks and sound. Ah, sorry for the utterly unrelated comment. So let me add it’s impressive just like Guerlain parfums aren’t. 😇

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